How To Rock A Double Breasted Jacket

How To Rock a Double Breasted Jacket:

Rose and Born
Rose & Born, Swedish Style Maestros

We’ve all seen them. Those dapper dudes who ooze style – the kind of natural, unique sartorial finesse, at a level you only wish you could reach. There’s a high chance that these gentlemen have at least one awesome DB (if not one, fifty) in their wardrobe. As an avid supporter and wearer of this style, I’m going to share some ideas and knowledge so you can also master  the Double Breasted look.

Fabio Attanasio at Pitti88 captured by The Trend Spotter
Fabio Attanasio at Pitti88 captured by The Trend Spotter

Fit is of utmost importance!

Double Breasted Suits and Jackets are seeing a resurgence with modern styling. The youth of today are wrestling away the antiquated popular stigma of the ‘80s and ‘90s sack-suit. These designs championed by the likes of Giorgio Armani prevailed on the backs of the previous generation. Essentially we have been reinventing a style that has been cycling in and out of popularity for decades. Except this time we’re doing it better.
When it comes to the modern fit, you will see a marked shift towards a slimmer silhouette. Your jacket should feature high armholes, a neat shoulder line and a gorge that sits comfortably atop the collar bones. You must (MUST!) do your research into which brand works for you. It is very important to get these elements right when searching out the perfect DB to begin your collection.

Steve Calder captured by Elizabeth Kinnaird
Steve Calder captured by Elizabeth Kinnaird

Now for the colour:

As you flick through endless photos of the latest Pitti Uomo (88), you’ll realise that your choice of colour palette is unlimited.  You’ll often hear that your colour choices should suit your particular skin tone, hair, eye colour, build and personality. However, I am a firm believer that staples such as black, navy and charcoal always work as the foundation to any jacket collection. I started my DB wardrobe with a black wool crepe number that I bought on sale for under $500 from Armani Collezioni. It was the perfect beginners jacket as I could wear it with pretty much anything – which meant i wore it alot. This ensured I quickly got used to the side-glances and comments from my friends and colleagues for wearing a garment distinctly different from the status quo.

My first DB Jacket.
My first DB Jacket.

Confidence comes later:

I guess the biggest piece of advice I can give to a first timer/menswear beginner, is that it will take some time to get used to wearing something so striking. This means you will have to suffer through a few jibes from your mates and a few awkward compliments from your mums friends before you get comfortable and begin to enjoy your newfound sartorial swagger.

Where to buy:

You’ll be able to find a DB fairly easy when shopping. Finding a GOOD one, now there’s a task. If you’re Australian, I would recommend searching out a small to medium sized local store which delivers good value for money (constructed with a full canvas or half canvas). It’s always a good idea to have something made for you, so I’d start by looking at local tailors and Made To Measure services first. If you’re in Melbourne like I am, or if you’re looking for more inspiration, check out the following brands doing it right in no specific order:

Trunk Tailors
Oscar Hunt
Patrick Johnson
The Finery Company

Ciao,

Steve Calder

Steve Calder, captured by Rocker Nguyen
Steve Calder, captured by Rocker Nguyen
Namha Nguyen (Nami Man) captured by me.
Namha Nguyen (Nami Man) captured by me.
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